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Mtskheta is Georgia's ancient capital and its spiritual centre — a town of under 8,000 people twenty kilometres north of Tbilisi holding a UNESCO World Heritage designation, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, and the Jvari Monastery on the ridge above the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers. Virtually every international visitor to Georgia passes through it, almost always on a half-day trip booked in Tbilisi through an operator that mentions no Mtskheta business by name. That is the defining commercial fact of this market: enormous, reliable, year-round footfall over which local businesses have almost no commercial influence. The restaurants, guesthouses, craft workshops and wine cellars here compete for a visitor who arrived on someone else's itinerary, has ninety minutes, and did not choose to come. The businesses that break out of that pattern do it by being findable before the trip is booked rather than after the coach has parked.

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