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Manuel Antonio is where Costa Rica's eco-tourism promise is most visible and most valuable — a national park drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors a year, a ridge road lined with rainforest lodges and villas overlooking the Pacific, sloths and capuchins in the trees above the restaurant tables, and Quepos below running one of the best sportfishing fleets in the country. Boutique eco-lodges charge $300 to $1,500 a night, ridge villas rent for $1,000 to $5,000, and the property market runs from $400K condos to $4M jungle estates. It is three hours from San José and served by a domestic airstrip. The demand is enormous and internationally distributed, which is precisely why so much of it is captured by OTAs, tour aggregators, and park-tour resellers that charge local operators a fifth of every booking — including bookings from guests who had already chosen the lodge by name.

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